Author Archives: bartacker

About bartacker

I consider myself to be in the constant process of mastering the Art of Communication.

12/19/10: Beyond The Blues Jean Bar

Hey, you guys!  It’s a rainy Sunday here in the Bay Area; very ideal for sipping coffee and sharing thoughts.  So allow me to bring you all up to speed with what’s been going on…

Web Shop
During my 2nd web shop production I found myself taking late orders even after the orders were closed.  And this worked pretty well.  So what I’ve decided to do from this point on is to simply continue to take all orders as they come.

Pricing: Then and Now
Initially, what I tried to do was to offer high quality, high concept art pieces (in this case, jeans) at below $200.  However, due to economies of scale, that’s not quite possible anymore.  In short, production costs have increased by $20/pair.  I, thus, have no choice but to pass that increase along to consumers.  The price/pair will now be $195 for the Cone Mills selvage and around $210 for the Japanese selvage.  With regard to the Japanese fabric, the price will fluctuate with the cost of the denim.

Economies of Scale
Long time visitors to my blog may already know that my line is cut & sewn at a reputable sewing contracting facility in my area.  They produce lines for lots of well known, high end brands (it was once a Levi’s production facility).  The woman who sews my jeans has been sewing for well over 30 yearslonger than some of you have been alive–so my product is in *great* hands:-)

However, the facility is set up to accommodate large orders ONLYThat’s how they make money.  And as such, they don’t typically do small orders on a back-to-back recurring basis.  They’ve been accommodating my makeshift web shop set-up simply because we have a history.  They’ve seen my progress and they believe in my brand and want to see me succeed.  However, they’ve been handling my small orders at a loss for the price that they’ve been charging me.  I was recently made aware that I haven’t even been paying the standard price.  The cost is actually $35 more than what I’ve been paying!  However, the manager increased it by only $20 for now, as a favor.  We’ve agreed to simply continue and see how this goes…

Fairness
Having said that, fairness has been the foundation for my price range and, considering what’s out there, I still consider $195 – $210 to be very fair–not to mention the offer of free shipping.  Additionally, I could have simply raised the price and not addressed it.  The reason that I’m sharing is because I feel it’s important for consumers to understand why clothes cost what they do.  I’m a consumer too!

My Inventory
Please understand that the pieces in my inventory were made at the previous cost, so the price/pair is as it was previously; $175-$185.  So if you see anything in your size that you’re interested in, just drop me an email.  These pairs are ready to ship!  Click here to view my inventory.

oneculture Pulsar Review
I noticed that someone recently found my blog by searching for “oneculture Pulsar review”.  You don’t hear about my brand in the denim forums.  Although I work very hard at what I do, those guys don’t typically value design and concept development.  As I said in my Denim Debate interview, my customers are more “middle-of-the road” than “denim snob”.  The bulk of my feedback comes directly to me from consumers who have purchased my product.  So for those of you who seek reviews, here’s some recent feedback:

“As for how I discovered onecultures, there is a small but strong concentration of denim geeks in Richmond Va, which is where I reside. So it was mostly word of mouth. I have to give my sister credit as well who linked me to an article on the denim debate a few months back urging me to get a pair. A couple of friends of mine also just received pulsars of their own, which they were stoked on. Finally, through discussions with the owner of a local denim shop here in Richmond called Need Supply Co. So it was due to multiple sources. I hope that helps you with your pinpointing, and know you do have a growing following in Richmond. ”
Edward

“Hi Mark,

I just wanted to let you know that I received the jeans yesterday and
they fit PERFECTLY. Thanks so much!”
Christopher

“your Japanese denim description got me though. And I ordered. And I’m glad I did. The fit is really great. I wore them all day yesterday – just over 12 hours. Not too bad for a first wearing. And you were right about the fit with boots, works very well.

I have a slight obsession with raw denim – especially Japanese denim. My collection is out of hand but I love almost all of the jeans I’ve purchased over the last 3 – 4 years. I tend to like heavier denims to lighter and have several of the 20+ ounce denims in my collection. It started with Samurai and continued from there with Iron Heart, Pure Blue Japan, Somet, Jean Shop, 5EP, Momotaro and many others. Since my collection has gotten massive, I’ve been trying to scale back and look for even more limited exclusive items or collaborations and your jeans seem to fit in perfectly with my new criteria. Of course this means I do not have many really broken in and faded jeans, but I really like the look of new, raw denim so that works for me. But these fit really well, so they will definitely be worn a lot!”
Ron


Beyond the Blues Jean Bar
A couple of months ago I received a random, unsolicited email from an executive with the Project trade show.  In it, she said that they’re all fans of my line over there.  I received the message on a Friday and it was a great way to start the weekend!  I’ve never contacted Project before.  And I most certainly would never have guessed that they had heard of oneculture.  It just goes to show that you never know who’s watching you!  I must have read that email eleventy million times—LOL…

It was the same proud feeling I got when I received my very first order from Randy Brewer (formerly of Villains/Villains Vault).  It was the sort of feeling I got when I received a random email from a guy named Ryan Plett, offering me an invite to what he then referred to as a “Denim Challenge” (which later became The Denim Debate).  I share this to say that I’m now confident enough to consider life beyond The Blues Jean Bar.  My goal for 2011 is to increase the accessibility of my brand.  And this means getting more accounts…

But, and I’ve said it before, it’s very difficult to get orders when buyers are unaware of your brand.  Buyers/boutiques/denim shops are in this business to *make money*.  And as such, they don’t typically take chances on unproven brands.  But that’s exactly what I’ve been trying to do with my little makeshift web shop–prove oneculture’s worth!

The web shop is definitely not a money-making operation at all!  On the contrary, it’s a way for me to provide constant access to my product for those consumers who enjoy my work.  Again, it’s ultimately a way to establish and prove my brand’s worth to buyers and/or potential investors.  And with that, I’d say the fact that I’m continuously taking orders during a terrible recession with nothing more than a blog is proof that oneculture has great potential.

So, in addition to continuing running the web shop, my immediate plans are to begin working on the next version of Pulsar (version 4).  My focus lies solely on doing good work and providing a great finished product.  But as usual…despite my best efforts, only time will tell what obstacles lay ahead in 2011.  I’m excited!!

In any case, I’ll keep you all posted.  Stay tuned!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (To order, contact me directly)

WEB SHOP INVENTORY

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


12/12/10: Web Shop Inventory

Hey, you guys!  It’s been a rough week, but I’ve finally added 13 pieces to my inventory.  You can check out what I have on hand here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56963671@N07/sets/

As for the “rough week”…for now, I’ll just say that there will be some changes made with regard to my makeshift web shop.  I’ll cover the details later–>I’m beat!  In addition to a rough week, it’s also been a long day…

By the way, the guy in the fit pics for the following pair (below) stands 5’8″ tall and weighs 130lbs .  And his waistline measures roughly 30.5″.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56963671@N07/sets/72157625586042192/

Stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


12/05/10: Editing

Hey, you guys!

I’m still in the process of editing photos, but I promise to post the pieces that I have on hand this week (approximately 12 pairs).  To be honest, even after all this time of keeping an online journal and posting photos, I hadn’t anticipated what a chore this would be…

First off, and I’ve said it before–>I’m no photographer!  And photographing denim can be downright difficult if you don’t know what you’re doing (and I don’t!).  I do understand however, that overcast skies are ideal for taking pictures.  So in an effort try and get the colors as close to true life as possible I’ve been taking advantage of the rainy weather we’ve been having here in the Bay Area .  The results?  Eehh…close enough, I suppose.

Second is the task of sifting through what seems to be a million photos in order to consider what details to share.  The objective is to have people get something from the image that they’re viewing.  So that’s sort of what I’ve been doing.  But again, I’ll have everything up sometime this week.  Hopefully you’ll find something that fits your frame.

In any case, I’ll keep you all posted…stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


11/28/10: Inventory Coming

Stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


11/07/10: It’s Time!

Passion–real passion–is born from the desire to make a difference

Hey, you guys!  It’s been quite a while, but I’m finally ready to begin taking orders for batch #3.  I had planned to get together with Rich (aka “The Silver Surfer“) today in order to take more fit pics for this post.  But as luck would have it, in spite of a week of beautiful weather, it rained today! But don’t fret as more fit pics will be taken shortly…

Anyway, for those interested in grabbing a pair of Pulsars, just drop me an email.  As usual, in order to effectively assist you, I’ll need 4 bits of information from you.

#1) Fabric preference. Your  denim options are as follows:

A)

This 13oz. Cone Mills, blue-line selvage denim is sanforized.   Even after a 1-hour hot soak the measurements remained unchanged, with the exception of the inseam, which shrank 1/4″.  The denim is dark with a greenish undertone.  Pulsars made from this denim will cost $175 (free international shipping).

B)

This 14oz., 100% cotton, rope dyed Japanese denim is nice & stiff!  It’s also sanforized; even after a 1-hour hot soak the measurements remained unchanged, with the exception of the inseam, which shrank 1/2″.  The color is nice & dark–just ripe for fading!  The first photo in this set (just above the photo of the seams) is a fairly spot-on color reference.  Pulsars made from this denim will cost $185 (free international shipping).

The $10 price differential is attributed to the HEFTY freight charges associated with having denim shipped over from Japan.  By the way, this is not the same 14oz denim from batch #2.  Anyway, in addition, I’ll also need to know…

2) Your true waistline measurement. If you normally wear dry denim, feel free to also let me know which brand (including the style name or cut) and size you wear.  Some purveyors of raw denim usually include measurement spec charts on their websites.  I can then investigate in order find the size Pulsar that would work best for you.  But still…knowing your true waistline measurement is crucial when ordering raw denim online.

3) Your style preference: straight leg or slim tapered.


4) Your preferred Thread Color Reference: “1978”, “1970”, or “East Bay MUD”.

A) 003 or 003T (“East Bay MUD”)



B) 002 or 002T (“1970”)

C) 001 or 001T (“1978”)

So to recap…

If you’re interested in placing an order, simply send me an email: mark@houseofoneculture.com.  Let me know 1) which denim you prefer, 2) your waistline measurement, 3) your preferred style (straight or tapered) & 4) thread color option, and we can take it from there.  Aside from that, I’ll keep you all posted.  Stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


11/04/10: Ready, set…

This coming Sunday evening…

…stay tuned!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


10/10/10: Blah, Blah, Blah…

Howdy, All!

So…Morgan has been wearing his Pulsars (Slim-Tapered) for roughly 4.5 months. As you can see (above), he prefers a more snug fit. He even had the jeans tapered in order to give them a slimmer silhouette (notice the wide selvage at the hem). This pair is made from what I describe as a “purplish/berry-blue” Cone Mills 13oz., yellow line, selvage denim (below). Great denim, and great work so far! Go, Morgan!!

It’s been quite a while since I’ve really aired my thoughts. My blog has taken more of a business tone lately, so I find it quite refreshing to have the time & energy just to be able to sit down and talk/type to you guys. It’s my day off and we’re having COMPLETELY GOURGEOUS weather here today in the Bay Area!! I’ve spoken with well-traveled people who insist that the Bay Area has the best weather in the world; not too hot nor too cold, but just right, and on a fairly consistent basis:-) In addition to enjoying the picture-perfect weather, I’m sipping coffee and enjoying a nice caffeine high so I’m ready to get my “blah, blah, blah” on—lol…

As for what I’ve been up to, I’ve been busy working the grave yard shift during the night, and trying to push through orders and sampling fabric, as well as trying to find the time to sleep during the day. The process has been both educational and rewarding, and draining too!

oneculture Batch Production
I’ve also been in the process of sourcing & selecting new denims for my 3rd batch production. I’d like to be able to offer a bit of a selection each time out. Although I’ll never limit myself, the selection will consist primarily of denims from Cone Mills and Japan. Speaking of which, I’m getting some cool 14oz Japanese selvage in tomorrow. It’s fairly dark and should make for some really intense contrast fading!! I can’t wait to get busy with it. I’ll officially begin taking orders for Batch #3 in another couple of weeks. However, if you have a denim preference (Cone or Japan), I urge you to let me know ASAP as there is only a limited supply of each; first come, first served! We can discuss your size later…

Also, as previously mentioned, I’m looking forward to getting my own pair; I still haven’t nailed my correct size yet! I tried a size 38, but it was a tad too large for me. I suppose that it would really all depend on the fabric. In any case, I have a better idea of what size I’ll need now. I’m 6’2” and roughly 225lbs., and I carry my weight such that I’m of fairly even mass. Thus far, I’ve only had the pleasure of breaking in Pulsar version 1, from fall 08′ (above, in my blog header). This time however–Batch #3–I’ll be getting my own pair, finally!! I’ll share fit pics when the time comes, and I’ll also occasionally provide fade updates. I plan on breaking my next pair in indefinitely…

The oneculture Web Shop
Aside from all that, I’m still in the process of figuring out just how I want to structure my web shop. Originally, I’d thought about creating a website. But now I’m beginning to wonder if that’s really necessary. It would most certainly be more professional…but I’m no industry professional, so. Besides, my blog is like my home; it’s comfortable here. And if possible, I’d like to simply incorporate my web shop into my blog. I’ll see how everything goes…

In any case, I have some new items to add and I’ll be adding more in the coming weeks. As previously mentioned, those items will be ready to ship.

1) Simply send me an email, letting me know which pair you’d like.
2) I’ll let you how/where to send your payment.
3) Once your payment is received, I’ll ship the jeans to you, either on the same day or on the morning after, depending on how late I receive your message (free international shipping). I usually accept PayPal. However, if you’d like to pay by other means, just run the idea by me.

Pulsar, Version 4
I’ve also been mentally making adjustments in preparation for Pulsar, Version 4. My customers have been great so far in regards to letting me know what they’d like to see in the next edition—thanks guys! And I hang on to every word, listening with the intent of making adjustments where I see fit. For those of you who enjoy my work, Pulsar version 4 will be a treat; that’s for sure! That’ll be available sometime next year. I also plan to re-cut and bring back my boot cut at that time—“Hello”. Hello will be offered exclusively through my web shop.

Anyway, that’s about it for now. I’m about to get out and enjoy the rest of the day. I’m thinking of perhaps taking in a film; one of my favorite past times. And for the record, I’m really interested in seeing:

Catfish

The Social Network

Machete

and, “Let Me In

A friend of mine works as a movie critic, and he insists that “Let Me In” is a must-see.  As he puts it, “You will NEVER see a “scary” movie with as much emotional depth, a better story,and acting.”  If it sucks, I’m never gonna let him off the hook–lol!  Anyway…

As always, I’ll keep you all posted….stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


9/17/10: INVENTORY

Hey, you guys!  I’ve been pretty busy lately with my little make-shift web shop; I found the “41 inch waist guy”, by the way!  Anyway, I’m still learning the ground but I’ve been trying to create a good system.  Things have been both challenging and enlightening.  This is trial and error, folks!

Ideally, what I’d like to do is to amass an inventory from which consumers can order directly without having to wait for production.  I display the goods, you tell me what you want, I confirm your order, you pay, I ship–>done deal.  Smooth…

During each production I always have an extra pair produced specifically for my web shop inventory.  I currently have four pieces; a small inventory, yes, but I’m ready to officially open up for direct orders.  The items listed below are what I have on hand ready to be shipped.  The price is an even $175 (free world wide priority shipping).   If you see your size but would prefer that the inseam be hemmed, just let me know your preferred inseam length and I’ll take care of it.

Welcome to my Web Shop:-)

Item 1: PULSAR, size 29/36 (the ones modeled by Todd)

Item 2: PULSAR Slim-Tapered, size 30/34

Item 3: PULSAR Slim-Tapered, size 32/34

Item 4: PULSAR Slim-Tapered, size 33/36

That’s it for now.  I’ll keep you all posted.  Stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


08/23/10: Missing Person Alert!

I’m looking for a missing person of sorts.  There’s a guy who’d contacted me this morning who’s waistline measured approximately 41 inches (as I recall).  However, while sorting through my email box I accidentally deleted his email and was subsequently unable to retrieve it.  So if you–“the 41″ waist guy”–are reading this, please contact me again!  That’s it…

I’ll keep you all posted. Stay tuned!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326


8/21/10: Locked and Loaded!

Passion–true passion–is born from the desire to make a difference

The orders for batch #2 have all been recorded (as of yesterday) and I look forward to completing another successful run!!  Aside from handling my makeshift Web Shop, I’ve just been doing A LOT of critical thinking.  I used to be an engineering major (civil) so problem solving is very familiar territory.  I actually consider it to be part of the fun, although it’s still very frustrating at times.  But that’s life: part fun, part pain in the ass!!  And with that said, I’ll let Barton Fink take us out–ha ha ha (I love this!)…

I’ll keep you all posted.  Stay tuned!!

Join me on facebook

Cheers,
Mark
oneculture
For those who love jeans
mark@houseofoneculture.com (for all inquiries, contact me directly)

Available @

1827 Union St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 346-4280

1409 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
(310) 656-7898

2210 N. Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-5326